Best At Show Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion week marked the debut of new creative directors Walter Chiapponi for Blumarine and Matteo Tamburini for Tod’s with new refined directions for both. Current trends of leopard print and everyday office wear were consistent in multiple collections, yet we also saw hints of sleek glamour with a resurgence in 50s and 60s silhouettes, experimental knitwear and accessories being applauded.
BLUMARINE
TOD’S
Jil Sander was a celebration of craftmanship with monochrome and rounded shapes as a flourishing motif. Construction is at the heart of Jil Sander, and this collection was no different with the introduction of coordinated overcoats and a range of fabric from fur, quilt, and wool, this collection was a pallet of wearable and impeccable tailoring. This cocoon silhouette was also seen with Marni who put a playful twist on this sleek construction and incorporated our favourite trend of the season, leopard print. With nods to 50s and 60s shape, Marni transformed iconic trends into a retro glamour dream.
JIL SANDER
MARNI
Walter Chiapponi unveiled a new transition for Blumarine away from Y2K pastels and into a refined and somewhat mature pallet. Fur and bold prints were repurposed into subtle hints and sheer fabrics were left behind this season. Chiapponi sought out the softness and romance at the core of Blumarine through fuzzy dresses being paired with bold animal print tights and delicate colour pallets being met with leather, debuting a sophisticated elevation for Blumarine, and redefining their indie sleaze aesthetic. Matteo Tamburini’s debut for Tod’s was again a successful ascension into a sleeker and luxury look that commended clean lined craft and artisanal tradition with stunning elevated menswear pieces.
For new designers, garments are not always enough and AVAVAV have consistently showcased drama alongside the collection. This year was no different and banana skins, newspapers and eggs were thrown onto the runway as a statement against the hateful backlash the designer received. While the collection was wearable from baby tees to and distressed denim, the eruption of chaos on the runway in a sense took away from the collection yet the message of the show was just as important and everyone is still unpacking the scene, providing important insight into what is ahead for the new generation of fashion and harsh realities of this world.
AVAVAV
It is completely reassuring to see both Tamburini and Chiapponi taking a risk in creative direction and refining the aesthetic that is already present in both brands. The resurgence in delicate tailoring is an exciting step this year and seeing hints of trends instead of them being the defining part of a collection is again an exciting move in the industry with more of an appreciation for designers simply elevating the core of the brands.
By Assiya Foukrache
Assiya is on Instagram.