Dr Oli Curwen On Dermal Filler And Polynucleotides Under-Eye Injectables
Although under-eye injectables are not new, fairly new to the beautysphere is the Polynucleotide injection, an exciting new injectable that is much more than just treatment and achieves skin regeneration. There are various pros and cons with Polynucleotide under-eye injectables and to fill on all you need to know we spoke to Dr Oli Curwen of Dr Oli Aesthetics as pictured, a London-based surgical and aesthetic practitioner on the pros and cons of polynucleotide in comparison to dermal filler known as tear trough filler in the aesthetics industry.
With advanced training from Derma Medical, the UK’s number 1 aesthetic training provider, and a background in surgical training from the Royal College of Surgeons of England (alongside his work in aesthetics he also operates as a surgical doctor with the NHS) Dr Oli performs a wide range of injectable facial treatments which deliver natural-looking results that help you look like you, but on a really good day. Who better than him to share with you everything tear trough filler and polynucleotide wise?
Read on for Dr Oli’s guest piece on all you ought to know about tear trough filler and polynucleotide.
“Why do I look more tired than I feel?”
I always present my patients with a mirror during their first consultation with me in clinic, and almost everyone points at their eyes first. The delicate under-eye skin is often the first to show the signs of a busy life. Dark rings, hollows and fine wrinkles can appear quickly, leaving us looking tired even when we’re feeling our best.
When we address these concerns in clinic, the conversation often turns towards the two most popular under-eye treatments, traditional dermal fillers and the newer treatment, polynucleotides.
It’s important to understand that, firstly, these treatments do not create the same results and are not interchangeable; they work in different ways and will target different issues. Choosing the right treatment is the difference between a naturally refreshed look, and potentially an unnatural or ineffective result.
Tear Trough Filler (Dermal Fillers in the under-eye area)
Dermal fillers in the under-eye area (known as the tear trough in the aesthetic industry) have been the standard go-to treatment for a deep under-eye groove, commonly associated with weight loss and ageing.
Who is it for?
Most under-eye fillers are made up of Hyaluronic Acid (HA), a substance that our bodies naturally produce to maintain support. Specifically formulated HA draws in water, leading to plumping and hydration of the skin. As the natural fat pads in the under-eye area either shrink or drift downwards over time, it leaves a shadow, or hollow, that can make us appear tired and gaunt. Dermal filler therefore is for people with volume loss in the under-eye region.
How quickly can I see results?
Like all dermal fillers, the results are immediate. After the procedure, the under-eye hollow is instantly reduced, with an expected further improvement over the following 6-20 hours as the fillers continues to absorb more water in the area.
How long does it last?
Tear trough filler should last between 9 and 18 months, depending on the brand of filler used, your metabolism and your injector’s technique. Because of its instant effect and longevity, you get a lot of bang for your buck with this treatment.
Is it safe?
The million-dollar-question. Fillers developed for the under-eye area have been around for many years and are fundamentally safe for the body. However, as with all injectable treatments, nothing is risk-free, and a lot depends on the skill of your injector. The under-eye area is extremely delicate, with thin skin and a complex network of blood vessels. Precise injection technique performed by a highly skilled aesthetic healthcare professional is crucial in this area to avoid infection, puffiness, visible lumps of filler and bluish discolouration (called the Tyndall effect, when the filler is injected to close to the skin surface). Most importantly, if injected into a blood vessel supplying the eye, filler can cause irreversible blindness. This is an extremely rare complication, but this is why seeing someone with expert qualifications is a requirement.
Polynucleotides
Favoured by Hollywood and the likes of Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Aniston, the ‘salmon sperm facial’ has soared in popularity in recent years. Polynucleotides are an exciting new injectable that achieves skin regeneration, not just treatment. Derived from purified elements of salmon DNA, this treatment stimulates the body to produce its own repair molecules, like collagen (for structure) and elastin (for skin quality). Think of polynucleotides as a long-term investment in skin health, rather than a quick fix.
Who is it for?
Polynucleotides are ideal for people with skin quality and texture concerns, namely fine lines and thin ‘crepey’ skin. Dark eye bags caused by pigmentation or prominent vessels can also be targeted. Polynucleotides are great for those who don’t suffer from volume loss but are looking to improve the skin health and thickness of this delicate area.
How quickly can I see results?
Unlike fillers, there is no instant ‘wow’ moment – polynucleotides are a slow and subtle treatment. A course of treatments (typically 2-4 sessions, spaced 2-6 weeks apart) is required to see a full benefit, however there is noticeable improvement in skin firmness and hydration over several weeks from the first treatment.
How long does it last?
Effects from polynucleotides rely on the body being able to keep producing good levels of collagen and elastin, so lifestyle (not smoking, a good diet, and good skincare in between treatments) is important. Results should last between 6 and 12 months, but repeat courses are recommended at the 4–6-month interval to keep pushing the body to produce these vital molecules. Because this treatment is more time-intensive, this is a more costly option that tear trough filler.
Is it safe?
When compared to fillers, polynucleotides are very safe. Like all injections, there is a risk of bruising and swelling. There is also the added risk of allergy, especially if you’re allergic to fish! Because it is not a volumizing chemical, the risk of causing blindness is significantly lower than tear trough filler.
The Verdict
Where the issue is volume loss and hollowing, then I’d likely go down the route of dermal fillers, with the aim of using the least possible volume to produce the desired effect. In cases of thin skin and fine lines, polynucleotides are a great, safe option. It’s also important to remember that these treatments can also be used together, where you may have a combination of issues.
In my practice, a consultation and examination of the under-eye area is key. Every patient is unique, so it’s impossible to adopt a one-size-fits-all approach. Do your own research, check which products your practitioner is using and always seek out a qualified medical professional for a bespoke consultation and safe treatment.
Dr Oli Curwen is based in London and provides expert aesthetic treatments to provide natural-looking results.
Visit him online here.