Unisex fragrances are no longer confined to a particular scent family. From woody and musky compositions to florals and oud, perfume houses are creating scents that can be worn regardless of gender. Gucci, Chloé and BOSS each approach this through collections that explore different ingredients, inspirations and styles of perfumery. While some favour the warmth of woods, leather and amber, others introduce floral notes, spices and softer musks.
The distinction lies in the composition rather than who the fragrance is intended for. A floral perfume can have the depth traditionally associated with men’s fragrances, while woody scents can incorporate softer, sweeter ingredients. The five fragrances featured here demonstrate that range, from Gucci’s more elaborate Alchemist’s Garden creations to Chloé’s botanical compositions and BOSS’s tailoring-inspired collection.
Gucci The Alchemist’s Garden Lignum Idealis Eau de Parfum
£281 for 100ml
Gucci’s Alchemist’s Garden collection explores fragrance through the transformation of natural materials, with individual compositions drawing on flowers, woods, resins and other ingredients. Lignum Idealis focuses on the giant sequoia, a tree known for its remarkable height and longevity. Created by perfumer Alexis Grugeon, the fragrance translates that inspiration into a woody composition with aromatic and spicy elements.
Juniper berries, black pepper and cypress introduce the fragrance with a fresh, slightly sharp character. At its heart, a sequoia-inspired accord is combined with olibanum and Dreamwood, a sandalwood-inspired ingredient that contributes a smoother woody quality. Sandalwood, cedarwood and Haitian vetiver form the base, giving the fragrance a dry, earthy finish that develops beneath the more aromatic opening.
The combination of different woods is central to Lignum Idealis. Cypress and juniper provide a greener character, while sandalwood adds softness and vetiver introduces an earthier element. Rather than relying on a dominant floral or sweet note, the fragrance develops through these contrasting woody materials. Its green bottle, decorated with gold botanical detailing, reflects the visual identity of the Alchemist’s Garden collection.
Chloé Atelier des Fleurs Cedrus de Nuit Eau de Parfum
£115 for 50ml
Chloé’s Atelier des Fleurs collection is built around botanical ingredients and the personal interpretations of the perfumers who work with them. Cedrus de Nuit forms part of the Fleurs de Nuit range, which explores fragrances inspired by flowers and the atmosphere of the evening. The scent develops the woody character of the original Cedrus fragrance, introducing richer floral and amber-like notes.
Created by Quentin Bisch and Louise Turner, Cedrus de Nuit incorporates Queen of the Night, a flower associated with blooming after dark. Its honeyed and spicy qualities are combined with dark vanilla and benzoin, a resinous ingredient that adds warmth and a slightly sweet character. These notes sit alongside the woody elements of the composition, producing a fragrance that combines floral softness with a more substantial base.
The vanilla and benzoin give Cedrus de Nuit its warmer character, while the floral elements prevent the composition from becoming entirely woody or resinous. The fragrance is presented in a ribbed cobalt-blue bottle with a pale cap, distinguishing it from the lighter-coloured bottles traditionally associated with Atelier des Fleurs. It is a different interpretation of cedar-inspired perfumery, with greater emphasis on floral and warm resinous notes.
Explore Chloé Atelier des Fleurs
Gucci The Alchemist’s Garden Muschio Mineralis Eau de Parfum
£281 for 100ml
Muschio Mineralis is another fragrance from Gucci’s Alchemist’s Garden collection, but its composition centres on musk, vanilla and ambergris-inspired accords rather than the predominantly woody character of Lignum Idealis. Created by perfumers Mathilde Bijaoui and Julie Massé, it brings together spices, incense and warmer base notes to create a layered composition.
The fragrance opens with pink pepper, elemi and cumin, introducing a combination of spice and aromatic freshness. Patchouli and olibanum develop through the heart, adding earthy and resinous qualities. In the base, Bourbon vanilla is combined with musk and ambergris-inspired materials, creating warmth while retaining the more complex character established by the spices and incense.
Vanilla plays an important role in Muschio Mineralis, although the fragrance is not built around sweetness alone. Patchouli provides depth, while olibanum contributes a dry, incense-like quality that contrasts with the smoother base. The musky and amber elements bring the different notes together. Presented in a black glass bottle with gold detailing and a fox illustration, the fragrance continues the Alchemist’s Garden collection’s use of decorative animal symbolism.
BOSS The Collection Wild Violet Eau de Parfum
£199 for 100ml
BOSS The Collection draws inspiration from the fashion house’s approach to tailoring, with fragrances developed around different garments, fabrics and materials. Wild Violet takes the leather jacket as its starting point, combining a floral violet accord with the darker character of leather. The composition reflects the contrast between the softness of a floral ingredient and the more substantial qualities associated with leather.
Violet is a familiar ingredient in perfumery, often used for its powdery, slightly sweet and floral character. In Wild Violet, it is combined with leather to create a fragrance that moves between these two distinct elements. The floral note provides softness, while the leather accord introduces a deeper, warmer quality. Rather than allowing either element to dominate the description of the scent, the composition is built around their contrast.
The fragrance is presented in a purple-toned glass bottle with a silver cap and a black label, accompanied by cylindrical packaging that follows the visual identity of The Collection. Wild Violet also demonstrates how BOSS connects its fragrance development with its fashion heritage, using a recognisable wardrobe piece as the inspiration for a perfume rather than a conventional floral or woody theme.
Gucci Intense Oud Eau de Parfum
£158 for 90ml
Gucci Intense Oud explores the warmer, darker side of woody perfumery, combining an oud accord with incense, leather and amber-like materials. Oud has a long history in Middle Eastern perfumery and is valued for its distinctive woody, resinous character. In contemporary fragrances, oud-inspired accords are often combined with other woods, spices and balsamic ingredients to create compositions with greater depth.
Created by perfumer Aurélien Guichard, Gucci Intense Oud brings together black pepper and olibanum in the opening, followed by amber woods, sandalwood and cedarwood. Leather, patchouli, gurjun balsam and an oud accord form the base. The spices and incense introduce a sharper character before the warmer woods and resinous ingredients become more prominent.
Unlike the fresher woody composition of Lignum Idealis or the floral contrast of Wild Violet, Intense Oud places greater emphasis on incense, leather and deep woody notes. Sandalwood contributes a smoother element, while patchouli and balsamic materials give the fragrance an earthy, resinous quality. Its black bottle and gold Horsebit-inspired cap reference Gucci’s design heritage, providing a distinctive presentation for the composition.
