Schiaparelli Spring Summer Couture 2024
Latex, balloons, cowboys, and a robot baby? Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli SS24 was truly a tasteful mix of haute couture with the impending fears of what the rise of technology means for the future of fashion.
Photo: Schiaparelli
From the outset, we were met with drama infused silhouettes with the more wearable pieces being shown at the debut of the show, a strategic move to allude to the unpredictability about what was yet to unfold. These latex designs were met with oversized shoulders, encapsulating the models up to the neck with a very rigid form- Roseberry’s evasive storytelling from look 3 slowly was revealed as these looks became more suffocating up to the revelation of the robot baby which was arguably the star of this show and was a nod to the rise in technology. Could his previous looks be a subtle hint of the inevitable suffocation of technology in the modern world? With ai on the rise there is now an intrinsic link between the fashion and technological world yet instead fearing what this could mean for the future of fashion, Roseberry embraced a fusion between the 2 and took a pivotal take on these fears.
Photo: Schiaparelli
Roseberry’s adoration towards Elsa Schiaparelli were the foundations for many of these looks and was a particularly delightful homage to Elsa’s range of niche interests from the Alien films, to western cowboys, to mythology. Roseberry’s take on these interests coupled the new vs the old world and distorted old silhouettes of drama and volume to the new era of fashion by fusing wearable sheer garments (old world) with metal embellishments and masks (new world). Following the Louis Vuitton SS24 show I thought it would be insanity to follow in the Western cowboy footsteps yet the versatility in this show somehow sprouted a new look into the cowboy motif through models being completely drowned in tassels and higher shoulders and more drama- a completely modern twist on the well-loved motif this season.
Photo: Schiaparelli
A look into the digital side of fashion was completely unexpected this season and was a refreshing allusion to the Alien films, again, one of Elsa’s niches. The infamous robot baby was such a profound take on the future of fashion, with more drama following with the full repurposed metal dress, leaving front row yearning for the silhouettes to come. Somehow however, this was one of the most wearable yet intricate and theatrical garments I have seen on the runway this season. We saw full masks created by feathers and latex follow the robotic looks and yet cohesion was never an issue.
Roseberry’s ability to transform the widest range of influences into a delicate and high fashion homage not only to Elsa but the future of fashion restored my faith into storytelling on the runway while remaining true to Schiaparelli.
By Assiya Foukrache
Assiya is on Instagram.